March 2003

Harden those Hoofs

In support of our mission statement for educational development, here is the another edition of Info Gaits


In the Farrier business I get asked quite frequently what to do about dry brittle cracked hoofs.

Having researched this quite extensively I'm convinced that one product stands out above all the rest. In Farrier circles this product gets recommended much more frequently than anything else on the market.

Hoof horn is at its strongest and most durable when it has a stabilised moisture content of around 25%. Unfortunately here in the Midwest most horse-owners, seeing hooves in this condition, would say they're too dry. But that is exactly as they should be to withstand the stresses of work and shoeing. Even if the moisture content of horn cannot be maintained at this sort of level it is essential to control and stabilise moisture at a constant level otherwise cracking will occur.

Because of the climatic conditions, wet Winters and then Summers interspersed with wet and dry periods, hoof horn is certainly too wet for probably three or four months of the year, starting when the hooves are saturated with water from high Winter rainfall.

When hoof horn is saturated it swells to accommodate excess water molecules. The swelling causes the surface cracks and defects to disappear leading the uninformed observer to believe hooves are at their best when they are wet. Although they may look better, the horn is actually very weak when saturated with water - just like your keratin based fingernails after you have sat in the bath for too long, when they can be easily bent and torn.

Given that hoof horn is strongest when it has a low moisture content of 25% one might assume that as hooves dry out after a wet Winter that they will become stronger as they dry. In reality we all know that the reverse is more normal with the hooves becoming brittle and cracking. How can this be? Is it genetic? Partly, maybe, in certain breeds. Is it Nutritional? Usually not. The simple answer, coming from extensive scientific research, is that it is caused by a change in the molecular structure resulting from excess water drying out of the horn too quickly.

In non-technical terms imagine hoof horn to be made up of blocks (keratin molecules) held together with cement (intermolecular bonds). When the hoof takes on excess water the water molecules force the blocks apart and stretch the cement making the hoof weaker.

When the hoof dries out too quickly the 'blocks' move partly back into place, but the 'cement' is damaged and there are gaps between the 'blocks'. The lack of integrity of the molecular structure causes the hoof to crack and split under stress. A complication when the hoof is in this condition comes from the horn being more porous and easily absorbing water. This again swells the hoof and on a hot day it will dry too quickly, setting in motion the wet/dry cycle that is so damaging.

A further problem occurs when horn splits and cracks in Summer and the first thought is to soak the hoof in water to introduce some moisture. We now know that this exacerbates the whole problem. Soaking the already damaged hoof horn on a warm day causes the horn to initially swell to accommodate the water molecules and then during the heat of the day all the newly introduced water dries out and the hoof shrinks back again causing further damage to the molecular structure. Hosing or soaking with water dry brittle hooves will only exacerbate a problem that was caused by water in the first place and is definitely not recommended.

If it were possible to dry saturated horn slowly and in a controlled way over several weeks the molecular structure would rebuild itself to become both dry and strong, but that of course impractical. It must be understood that there is a big difference between dry horn with a low moisture content and dry brittle horn that has been damaged during rapid drying out. Most people will only normally see the latter, but unfortunately this condition has become synonymous with the warmer conditions in Summer and is now generally accepted as a normal occurrence, which of course science has proved otherwise.

Another important factor to consider is the way in which certain breeds are very much compromised by living in wet climates. The Thoroughbred for instance has only existed in this country for around three hundred years and before that its male ancestors, the three Arab stallions, came from a desert. Again it seems to be part of tradition that Thoroughbred hooves are expected to break up in Summer - and they do, and they probably have done so each year since breeding started in the 1700's.

Science has clarified the cause and effect of environmental water on hoof horn and furthermore has provided the products to repair and protect it.

For many years, centuries even, there was little more available within the Hoofcare armoury than concoctions of different oils and greases. Research shown that these products can actually damage hoof horn Many Farriers and Vets. are actively persuading their clients against their use.

Undoubtedly, some of these oily hoof preparations can give the hoof a pleasing and shiny appearance, but these marginal benefits do still have an adverse effect on the molecular structure of hoof horn and as you will have read earlier it has more than enough to cope with environmentally without further damage being caused by well meant, but inappropriate treatments.

Here's my recommendation. Keratex, has two specific products that have been specially developed to repair and protect hooves against the effects of environment.

Keratex Hoof Hardener actually repairs the molecular structure of hoof horn after it has been weakened by the effects of water. It does this by a process called cross linking and adds atoms to repair the intermolecular bonds which support the molecules of keratin that makes up the major part of hoof horn and give it optimum strength.

Having recognised that water is one of the main culprits in the cycle that weakens hoof horn Keratex developed Hoof Gel and this actually provides a protection to the whole hoof capsule that works in the same way as the 'breathing' fabrics used for clothing and Horse Blankets.

Hoof Gel stops all types of moisture, including urine, from entering the hoof, but it still allows air into the hoof and lets gases and excess moisture out. But it has many other benefits. It disinfects the hoof with every application and by preventing environmental water getting into the hoof it keeps the hoof capsule healthy by excluding the organisms that cause such conditions as seedy toe, white line disease, thrush etc. as these are all carried into the hoof in absorbed water. The result is that the hoof is virtually cocooned in an invisible coating that protects the horn and other hoof tissue without compromising any of the natural functions, so that the hoof develops to be naturally stronger and healthier. It also makes the hooves easier to clean, by shedding off water and mud, and helps stop matter adhering to the sole and frog.

Due to the influence of environmental factors the molecular structure of most horses hooves will be in some way affected and the symptoms may range from slight cracking around the nail holes to frequently lost shoes and ripped away hoof wall.

Because the horn structure usually needs repairing start treatment with Keratex Hoof Hardener and then follow up with Keratex Hoof Gel as an on going maintenance and protection throughout summer and winter.

At the end of the sixth week after the horse has been kept in, and immediately after the last application of Hoof Hardener has dried, start applying Keratex Hoof Gel every day during winter or wet weather and two or three times a week in dry weather. Remember early morning dew preceding a hot sunny day can be quite damaging if it is absorbed into the horn and then quickly dried in the heat of the day, so continue using Hoof Gel all year round. Use Hoof Gel over the whole hoof, walls, sole, frog and heels

This regime can be started at any time of the year, but it is of paramount importance to get the hooves absolutely dry before starting with Hoof Gel.

One final point from Keratex; Keratex Hoof Hardener is a very advanced, and patented, formulation designed specifically for use on hoof horn and because of the way it works, by adding atoms into the structure, it is impossible to over harden the horn. Some of our customers have been told by their farriers that the hoof is getting too hard, but this is not the case. Unfortunately many farriers are so used to working on soft water saturated horn, which is very easy to cut, that when the horn is at the correct moisture content they notice it is much harder to work on. Hard, dry horn is strong horn and should not be confused with the dry brittle horn that occurs after winter water dries out during hot weather.


Contributor: Bill Mayfield of Mayfield Farrier Service
Reference: www.keratex.net. Much of the research information was provided and approved for reprint by Colin Reeves of the Keratex corporation.


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